Like all day gecko’s the Phelsuma standingi are beautiful to observe though less of a pet to handle due to their sensitive skin. Its amongst one of the larges Day Gecko species growing to be eight to eleven inches in length. Depending on their surroundings and the light intensity they are exposed to, their body colour can vary slightly between brown, grey and sometimes green. They also have reticulated turquoise / blue markings running from the top of their head to the base of the tail. Males and females can be told apart once sub adult as they are sexually dimorphic. When looking at a males cloacal area they have very defined pores compared to a female and they also have bulge. Females have two chalk/ calcium sacks  located on either side of their neck that are often well developed whereas males do not show as boldly. The chalk/calcium sacks are there to help store excess calcium, which is needed for breeding. 

Standing’s Day Gecko’s prefer more a dry habitat compared to some of their relatives. They inhabit arid forest regions of Madagascar specifically Sakaraha and Zombitse- Vohibasia National Park. On average the day time temperature never seems to fall below 68F (20C) and depending on the time of month the temperature can rise as high as 100F(38C) and as low as 55F(13C) at night. Being so tolerable to temperature change also makes them a good beginner species.

When hosing your gecko its best to try and replicate their natural environment in order for them to fully thrive. Standing’s Day Gecko’s are strictly arboreal and spend most of their time in the wild basking in trees either on their own or in sexed pairs. A male and female can be housed on their own or together in a minimum enclosure size of 45x45x60cm. Exo terra terrariums or Habistat Glass Terrariums would be ideal as the gecko’s can easily manoeuvre around glass. 

UVB is essential and should be provided. Arcadia T5 UVB Kits are available in a variety of sizes can be places ontop of mesh enclosures. As the UVB kits also have a reflector built all the light will be facing downwards into the enclosure. 

 

To heat the enclosure a Reptile Systems Reflector or Zoomed Deep Dome an be used to hold a high wattage spot or floodlight. This should be connected to a High Temperature Dimming Thermostat to help with temperature control and prevent the enclosure overheating. To measure the temperature in the enclosure a digital thermometer would be best for an accurate reading. 

Substrate should be dry but also capable of holding humidity, especially if you decide to plant the enclosure and make it bio active. Moss peat or Coco Fibre mixed with ZooMed forest floor would be ideal. If you do decide to go bioactive remember this species doesn’t need the enclosure too humid so make sure to use appropriate live plants that wont perish under the heat. Snake plants would be a good choice as they also grow tall and will support the weight of the gecko climbing them. You will also need to add an LED bar to help with plant growth. 

Other decor that can be used varies on your personal taste and how you want the enclosure to look. However a few recommendations would be Frankenstein vines, Restyle vines, Cork branches, Java branches and Komodo standing plants also look great and add colour to any enclosure. 

 

For a water source you could always use a small dripper system or even leave a medium water dish in the enclosure and just spray the tank, substrate and decor roughly three times a week. Humidity can vary between 40-80% and can be measured using a Hydrometer. 

 

Finally when it comes to feeding its important to remember Standing’s Day Gecko’s are Omnivores and should be fed a varied diet. This includes live insects, as well as prepared foods like Repashy, Arcadia StickyfootGold, FruityInsectGold or even ReptiGold. If you mainly feed your geckos on insects though you will need to supplement the live food with a Calcium supplement roughly four times a week and Vitamin supplement at least twice a week.